Showing posts with label amazon basin. Show all posts
Showing posts with label amazon basin. Show all posts

Thursday, 13 November 2014

Amazon basin - I love the smell of DEET in the morning !

Rurrenabaque is the portal here into the Bolvian Amazon - many tours operate from here and the town is whizzing with motorbikes , locals eating, eating and eating and foreigners waiting for their trips to begin !
Its hot, humid and rainy ! Don't forget a cheap B$ 5 rain coat - just in case ! I opted for the pampas instead of the jungle eco lodge tour as I was told Id be guaranteed more animals and less mosquitoes !
Well ------- ! Its also not rainy season yet - so lucky for me - more wildlife attracted to the river and less mosquitoes - but so so many other flying -into-your-hair bugs !
The ride from Rurrenabaque is bumpy - 3 hours of bumpy ! , our jeep was worse for wear - twice we had to stop as there was strange noises coming from the carriage of the car - which was ignored after a brief kick we were on the road again.
We had a basic lunch in Santa Rosa before we headed out on our boat - another 3 hours - far more interesting and comfortable than the jeep ride. Slather on the sunblock and then the DEET mosquito repellent - the beginning of a 3 day ritual !

This is definately the highlight - being on the river - getting up close and personal with the wildlife . Hundreds of crocodiles , entire families of  capybara ( giant semi-aquatic rodents - yes ---- The worlds largest rat ! with webbed feet ) , sunbathing chilling- out turtles on logs - little yellow squirrel monkeys chattering away , we saw one Toucan at our camp and a multitude of birds - herons, kingfishers,egrets,hawks, eagles,hoatzin(paradise birds) - all just going about their daily business at the riverside. Anacondas in the lake and piranha fishing in the river -quite an itinerary !
The dolphins came on day two - so elusive to capture on camera - greyish, pinkish dolphins , swimming and playing in the river. Beauty ! Swimming with the dolphins is recommended - really ? I see a black caiman croc over there and didn't we just fish here yesterday for piranhas ! And besides having studied Microbiology who knows what parasites abound here in these waters - I'm brave but not that brave !

The camp site - lodge was very basic but ok - riverside with good views to watch the animals . We all share in wooden huts with mosquito nets - a cook on hand to feed us - hammocks for relaxing , a generator for awhile at night to provide some electricity to charge all those damn phones and cameras! Giant I mean giant frogs - be careful where you walk . I had the privilege of   a small jumping frog in the shower- nearly made me  jump out of my skin ! The second night the bugs came - in full force - Stephen King like movie proportions - I itch now just thinking of it ! Luckily after a long days walk - I pass out no time to think of what is crawling about in the darkness outside. But just for a moment before I fall asleep I listen and hear a million sounds - beauty !

In the early evening we would take the boat up to the view point to watch the sunset - drink a beer - some travellers playing volleyball and soccer and most of us just lounging - taking the day in.
Tired , sunburnt but happy - a great experience -much seen and learnt - dark star filled skies and the coolness of the night air. Making memories !
 The Camp



 Finally at the river!





Anacondas and Psychedelic Mushrooms - all in a mornings walk

 NO ANACONDAS WERE HARMED - Six km's in wet, smelly pampas - knee deep in mud, toppling over , through shoulder high reeds - hiding at least 23 species of snake - we go off to " hunt " the Anaconda. The locals  talk about a 9 meter long snake - I shudder - But knowing that ours will be a touristy event - so no fear needed !
The walk is gruelling once the sun is high and the wellies are hot and sticky against your leg.
To no avail , we search one lake after the other , find a shady spot to rest and then continue.
One dead anaconda and we nearly give up - but still a 1km to walk back to camp.
We encounter crabs, huge snails, a small black snake , birds of all sorts and mushrooms - toxic - hallucinogenic mushrooms the guide explains. No one is up for it ! Damn !

Anyway soon , we hear another guide shout and there it is - Baby anaconda - damn you Hollywood ! ruining it for us ! One and a half meters of Anaconda - hmmmmm - back to the lake with you !

A shower and siesta in the camp before we hit the river for our night trip !








Sunday, 9 November 2014

Leaving La Paz


Early morning Sunday and I'm excited to get out of the city !  Flight from LaPaz is only 35 min to Rurrenabaque and yet a bus takes 24 hours. Once we in the air I realize why looking at the landscape below - not easy roads to traverse. I'm glad I chose the flight for obvious reasons but more so for the view ! 
Below La Paz lies like a twisted brown pretzel , overlooked by majestic snow capped mountains. 
The plane is small with about 20 passengers but soon I forget all the horror plane crash movies I've seen as the city scape changes to jungle , mountains and winding, snaking rivers! Wow! Incredible , the clouds feel so low as if you can reach  out and touch them . 
Before we know it we are preparing to land - there is no airport just a landing strip with two guys traffic controlling. 
The humidity hits once we out the plane , full force and we are off on a little bus to a nearby building where the luggage will be deposited. Waiting for about ten minutes ,
 I meet up with a British couple and we share a taxi into the village to our accomodation. Well I'm here, it's hot , there's a pool and a hammock - that's where I am now ! 
A little luxury before we head off 3 hours by boat into the jungle tomorrow - outside the comfort zone. I'm strongly armed against Mosquitos but have heard that nothing can save you ! 
Mmmmmmm something to look forward too ? I better see that damn anaconda !