Corn - Potatoes and those pesky Pisco sours !
Corn , the most sacred re-hispanic crop is found in as many colours as potatoes .Corn was used as food as well as a commodity to barter with - often in the streets and sometimes ladies hop on the bus selling hot corn (choclo) with slices of white andean cheese (queso) and sometimes chilli sauce. The purple corn here is converted into a drink called Chicha Morada and the quality varies from place to place-it can be served hot or cold and is definitely an enquired taste. Not for me !
Corn survived the Spanish conquest as many other grains was banned by the Vatican and disappeared from the Peruvian diet .
Potatoes ! Called Papas here , they say Peru boasts at least 200 varieties - although a chef I met says at least 4000 varieties.
Farmers will grow many varieties in their fields .Potatoes come in various forms, colours - and even dried !
Purple inside and out , yellow small potatoes , there are even frost resistant potatoes that can keep for up to 4 years . There are too many dishes to even mention with potatoes - from fried, mashed, stuffed with vegetables, cheese , meat. Potatoes , potatoes everywhere !
In cultural tradition potatoes are ritually stuffed with coca leaves and then buried as an offering to the earth in ope of a good harvest. So much respect here for the earth and its bounty !
The chilli peppers here are hot - be warned - even for me !
They often dry the peppers and use in sauces etc. There are many varieties and are used especially to spice up potatoes.
Let’s drink !
And of course - it wouldn't be right if they didn't make beer from the corn here in Peru. In
ancient Inca times the Chosen women in the court would make the beer - the beer was drunk as well as used in ceremonial work as an offering to Pacha Mama ( mother earth )by pouring it onto the earth doing ritual alongside other offerings.
This beer is thick - off white and looks like soup - many little hole in the wall cafes serve the beer in LARGE glasses . Sometimes it looks like a strawberry milkshake , thick and pink with a thick white foam top. MMMMmmmmmm - not so sure !
I’ve enjoyed the Quinoa beer of Bolivia more and Cusquena - a pilsner like beer made in Cusco.
Then there is Pisco - Is it sad to love this drink - too easy to ingest - tastes like a margarita but better ! That's a lot for me to admit to ! Sorry tequila - I will make it up to you !
Pisco is the national drink - it is a distilled brandy usually drunk as a cocktail called Pisco Sour. Although Chile also claims the fame of the Pisco brandy - Im here in Peru and I give it to them - they know how to make this one good .
The cocktail is made with Pisco, lime juice,egg white and simple sugar syrup - garnished with angostura bitters.There are many variations of the Pisco sour and my favourite is the Passionfruit Sour - or called Maracuya Sour - DELICIOUS!
Fried corn snacks are popular to drink with your beer or Pisco and are called cancha.
And one acquired taste is Mate de coca - tea made with coca leaves - helps with the altitude ! There are many cafes serving fantastic jugos' ( juices) as fruit is plentiful here !
So you want to eat the meat ?
I must admit despite many meaty temptations in Peru , the vegetarian options have been phenomenal .Especially Cusco boasts amazing restaurants which are either vegan or vegetarian with world quality food in presentation and flavour. And as there are many on ayahuasca diets or other plant medicines diets - the restaurants especially in the Sacred Valley cater for those on these limited diets . Convenient ! As its a no salt , no sugar,no spice and a another long list of not have ingredients !
Often seen next -to- the- road BBQ ’s offer anticuchos - beef hearts - like a shish kebab of beef heart! Ive tried chicken hearts in Beijing and don't really feel comfortable eating any heart of any animal . Chewy and feels slightly barbaric !
For the more adventurous there is cuy - guinea pig - served with head, paws etc . In the sacred valley on the road to Urubamba there is a massive statue of a guinea pig and a half dozen so stalls serving BBQ guinea pig on a stick .
Alpaca features strong on menu’s as an alternative to beef and in Pisac I saw lamb on the menu for the first time. LLomo Saltado is a traditional dish and popular dish made with strips of beef,onions,tomatoes,spices,rice and french fries.
Llama jerkey or salted Llama is widely available in the markets and the very odd appearance of donkey snouts ……. and pots of hot boiling frog soup !
In the higher altitude areas there are more stew like dishes and on the coast duck,goat is eaten. As Ive not visited these regions I have not tasted any of these dishes.
In the jungle piranhas are popular as well as a fish called - paiches. Piranha - once you get over the fact that its staring at you with its teethy grin does not offer much to eat but as their volume in the rivers are huge make a good option for food .The paiche fish is wrapped in banana leaves and baked in the coals but can also be fried or boiled served with yucca, palm hearts and freed bananas. In the Jungle the following are also popular.
Sajino- roasted boar - Juanes - a tamale stuffed with chicken and rice - turtle soup and of course bananas , bananas - fried !
Ceviche - the coastal regions are more safe to enjoy ceviche - here they use white fish marinated in lemon, onion and hot hot peppers! Its served with yucca and corn traditionally and also potatoes. I tried it at my brief volunteering position at the Portal of Light restaurant . I must admit Ive enjoyed scallop ceviche in Scotland more !
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| Chef at Portal of Light preparing Ceviche |
Delicious Roast pork at San pedro Market
Purple corn - Beautiful
Potatoes !
Frogs boiled in soup for Breakfast
Corn sheaves for Tamales
White Andean Queso ( cheese) Its good !
Piles of fish roe !
Would you buy your ceviche here ?
Fried pork ribs on the street
An oven on wheels filled with baked bananas !
